Why beard hair takes colour differently to the hair on your head
Why beard hair takes colour differently to the hair on your head
Beard hair is thicker than the hair on your head and has more layers on the outside. Colour has to get through those layers, so it enters more slowly and less evenly. Grey hair is harder again, because it has nothing inside holding those layers open. A grey beard is both problems at the same time, which is why it is the hardest hair on your body to colour.
First, how colour gets into hair at all
Think of one strand of hair as a thin tube with tiles on the outside, overlapping like tiles on a roof. That outer layer is called the cuticle.
For colour to last, it has to get past those tiles and into the middle of the strand. Once it is inside, it forms a bigger particle that cannot come back out. That is why proper colour lasts for weeks instead of washing off.
So anything that makes those tiles thicker, flatter or more tightly packed makes the colour's job harder.
Three ways beard hair is different
1. It is thicker
Beard hair is one of the coarsest hairs on the body. A thicker strand simply has more material for the colour to work through than a fine scalp hair does.
2. It has more layers on the outside
Thicker hair carries more of those roof tiles, stacked up. More layers means more for the colour to get through, and it means the colour needs longer to do it.
3. It is not a neat round shape
Scalp hair tends to be closer to round. Beard hair is often flatter and more uneven in shape, which is why it curls and kinks more. An uneven shape means the colour does not sit around the strand evenly, and you can end up with some hairs darker than others.
| Hair on your head | Beard hair | |
|---|---|---|
| Thickness | Finer | Coarser |
| Outer layers | Fewer | More |
| Shape | Closer to round | Flatter, more uneven |
| How fast colour gets in | Faster | Slower |
| Evenness of result | More even | More likely to look patchy |
Now add grey, which is its own problem
Grey hair is not just hair with the colour removed. The strand itself changes.
There is nothing inside holding it open
Normal hair has natural colour inside it, called melanin. That pigment sits between the outer tiles and keeps them slightly propped up. When the pigment goes, the tiles lie down flat and pack together tightly. A closed, flat surface is much harder for colour to get through.
There is less for colour to hold on to
Colour partly works by bonding with the natural pigment already in the hair. Grey hair has very little of it, so there is less for the new colour to grip.
It is drier and pushes water away
Grey hair makes less natural oil and tends to repel water. Most colour products are water based. So the product does not soak in as readily, and it can sit on the surface instead of going in.
Put the two together
Beard hair is harder to colour than scalp hair. Grey hair is harder to colour than dark hair. A grey beard is both at once. If your beard has taken colour badly in the past, this is usually why, and it is not something you did wrong.
What this looks like in real life
These are the five things men actually complain about, and what is behind each one.
| What you see | Why it happens |
|---|---|
| Some hairs took the colour, some did not | Thick and grey hairs in the same beard absorb at different speeds. The dark ones are already done while the grey ones are still working. |
| It came out brown or grey instead of black | The colour did not get fully inside the grey strands. What you are seeing is a partial result, not the finished colour. |
| It faded much faster than expected | If colour only reached the surface, it washes off the surface. Colour that got properly inside stays. |
| The chin and moustache look lighter than the cheeks | The hair around the mouth and chin is usually the coarsest on the face, so it is the slowest to take colour. |
| Head colour worked but the beard did not | The same product, the same time, but a much harder hair type. The instructions on a scalp product are written for scalp hair. |
What to do about it
None of this means a grey beard cannot be coloured properly. It means a few things matter more than they would on your head.
- Start with a clean, completely dry beard. The beard area produces a lot of natural oil, and oil sits between the colour and the hair. Wash it a few hours before and let it dry fully. Damp hair waters the product down.
- Make sure the product is coming out properly. If you use a two chamber product, pump it a few times before you start and check that both parts are coming out together. If only one is, the colour will not develop, and that alone causes most patchy results.
- Do the stubborn areas first. Start at the chin and moustache, then move outwards to the cheeks and jaw. The hardest hair then gets the longest contact time.
- Comb it through properly. Do not just paint the surface. Work the product down to the root and around each side, so the whole strand is covered, not just the front of it.
- Use the full time, and stop at the full time. Cutting it short is the most common reason grey does not take. But leaving it on longer does not fix stubborn grey either, and it does make skin staining more likely. Use the time on the pack, not more.
- Judge the result after it dries. Colour looks different wet. Give it a few hours before deciding it did not work.
If your grey is very resistant
Some men have grey that simply takes more than one round to fully cover. If your result is lighter than you wanted, do not leave the product on longer next time to compensate. Colour again on your normal schedule instead. Grey usually deepens over two or three applications.
Can I just use my head colour on my beard?
It will do something, but there are two problems.
The first is the one this whole page is about. A scalp colour is designed for scalp hair, and its stated time assumes scalp hair. On coarse grey beard hair, that time is often not enough, so you get a weak or patchy result.
The second is your skin. The skin on your face is thinner and more sensitive than your scalp, and when you colour a beard the product sits directly against it for the whole time. A product that never bothered your scalp can still cause a problem on your face.
If you do use one, always do a patch test first. There is more on that in our guide to beard colour ingredients and safety.
How our product handles this
Rise for Men Quick Beard & Hair Color is made for beard and head hair, so the ten minute time is set for coarse hair, not fine scalp hair.
It comes out as a gel through a comb, which is what gets the product down to the root and around the strand rather than just onto the surface.
It will not beat the basics. If you apply it to an oily or damp beard, or rinse it early, coarse grey will still resist it. It is an oxidative colour and contains PPD, so patch test 24 to 48 hours before your first use.
Common questions
Is beard hair really different from head hair?
Yes. It is thicker, it has more layers on the outside, and it is a less even shape. All three make colour enter more slowly and less evenly than it does on scalp hair.
Why does my beard dye come out patchy?
Usually because dark and grey hairs in the same beard absorb at different speeds, or because the product did not reach the whole strand. Oily or damp hair, rinsing early, and only coating the surface are the three common causes.
Why did my beard turn brown instead of black?
The colour did not fully develop inside the grey hairs. That is almost always too little time, product that did not reach the root, or oil blocking it. It is not the wrong shade.
Should I leave beard colour on longer to cover stubborn grey?
No. Past the stated time you get very little extra colour and a much higher chance of staining your skin. If coverage is light, colour again on your normal schedule rather than extending the time.
Does grey beard hair need a different product from grey head hair?
Not a different chemical, but it does need enough time for coarse hair. A product written for scalp hair may be timed too short for a beard.
Why is my moustache always lighter than the rest?
The hair around the mouth and chin is generally the coarsest on the face, so it takes the longest to absorb colour. Apply there first so it gets the most contact time.
Will my beard get damaged if I colour it often?
Colour that opens the outer layer will dry hair out over time, on your face as on your head. Space applications out rather than colouring early because it looks slightly faded, and keep the beard conditioned between uses.
This page is general information, not medical advice. If you have reacted to hair colour before, or you are unsure whether you can use it, speak to a doctor. See also our page on beard colour ingredients and safety.